A half-way rest day today, exploring Łódź by bike. In the morning, with yesterday's crowds now sleeping things off, Piotrkowska Street was deserted, and I could go Art Nouveau spotting (pic) without getting in the way of some city bike-hire tourist, wobbling chaotically around on an unsuitably heavy bike. Me wobbling, that is, not them.
Łódź is a city of parks – over 40, it's said – and I spent a pleasant morning in, among others, Mickiewicza Park (pic), enjoying an ice-cream and an all-ability family concert. Well, I say enjoying...
This is what a lot of postwar Łódź was like, as the economy collapsed under communist rule: huge, derelict textile factories, like this one (pic) on a large site being gradually redeveloped to the south-east of the centre. I nipped in to the Museum of Film – this is Poland's capital of film-making – which was very good, but everything was in Polish. Luckily there were some moving pictures to help me.
And this is what happens after redevelopment: Manufaktura (pic), a sort of Łódź equivalent of Meadowhall – except a lot more bike-friendly, and with a modern art gallery among all the chain stores and retail outlets.
Actually the art was a bit rubbish. The bike racks were much more aesthetically pleasing. All they need is one of those waffly art-speak descriptions on a card next to them and you'd think they were daring modern works that blur boundaries and ask questions etc.
Back on Piotrkowska I paused to admire local boy done good Artur Rubinstein about to launch into Chopin's Piano Concerto No. 2...
...and found a place to park my bike that would remind me of where I was if I forgot. After a while on these trips there's a risk places all blur into each other. Then I had an appointment at the hairdresser's for a long overdue trim. Yes, I've been travelling that long...
Miles today: 16
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